Hand-embroidered Chinese export coat, early 1920sThe craze for Orientalism that exploded onto the French fashion scene in 1909 continued through the 1920s. As early as 1900, however, Mandarin-style theatre coats from the Orient like this one found ready acceptance in the West. The export of these coats to the West ended in 1925, accounting for their relative rarity on the market.
The exquisite hand embroidery transforms the coat into a wearable work of art. Oriental dress was traditionally distinguished by the use of magnificent textiles and embroidery that was symbolic of rank and wealth.
The powerful verisimilitude of the sublime floral design is the work of a master embroiderer-designer, who has taken to heart a saying of Lysippus (350 BCE), the finest sculptor of antiquity: "an artist should imitate, not the work of other artists, but nature itself." Indeed, in our magnificent coat, nature might well envy the achievement of art.
The coat is fashioned from natural beige silk and is lined with matching China silk. The front opening, hem, and sleeves are outlined with floral borders. The body of the coat is asymmetrically embroidered with large raised floral bouquets. The design incorporates subtle textures through a variety of stitches, including padded satin stitch and beautiful knots.
The slightly flared style was perfect over the slim dresses of the 1920s and will work just as well over a modern slip dress. The deep side slits, drop shoulders, and wide sleeves give a relaxed and easy fit. The coat closes in front with fabric loops and gold tone ball buttons.
High style coats like this one are eagerly sought both by collectors and fashionistas: these coats are fabulous as evening wear. Ethnic styles are again in vogue, as they were 100 years ago. You can trump a designer "ethnic" coat with the real thing: the quality and style is greatly superior to what is seen in modern imitations.
